How to Crate Train a Puppy: Complete Step-by-Step Guide

Crate training works. Trainers, veterinarians, and behaviorists nearly universally recommend it because dogs are den animals that naturally seek enclosed, safe spaces. When done correctly, a crate becomes your puppy’s favorite spot - not a punishment cell.

When done incorrectly, it creates anxiety and negative associations that can last for years. The difference is entirely in the process.

Here’s the step-by-step method that professional trainers use, along with the specific timing, troubleshooting, and mistakes that most guides skip.

Before You Start

Get the Right Crate

Wire crates with a divider panel are the most versatile choice
Size for your puppy’s adult dimensions and use the divider to reduce space now
The puppy should be able to stand, turn around, and lie down - and nothing more
Too much space encourages using one end as a bathroom

Place the Crate Correctly

Your bedroom for the first few weeks (reduces nighttime anxiety)
Not in direct sunlight or near heating vents
Not isolated in a separate room (puppies panic when separated)
On a tile or waterproof surface if possible (accidents happen)

Gather Supplies

High-value, small treats (Zuke’s Mini Naturals, cheese cubes, cooked chicken)
A KONG or puzzle toy
A towel or cheap crate pad (nothing expensive - it will get soiled)
Enzyme cleaner for accidents

Phase 1: Introduction (Days 1-3)

Goal: The puppy enters the crate voluntarily.

Day 1

Leave the crate door open with a comfortable pad inside
Drop treats near the crate, then just inside the door
Let the puppy investigate naturally - no pushing, placing, or luring aggressively
When the puppy steps inside (even one paw), mark the behavior (“Yes!”) and treat
Do this 4-5 times in 10-minute sessions throughout the day

Day 2

Toss treats deeper into the crate so the puppy walks fully inside
Feed breakfast and dinner inside the crate (bowl placed at the back)
Leave the door open during meals
After eating, the puppy will likely linger inside. Praise calmly.

Day 3

While the puppy is inside eating, gently close the door
Stand right next to the crate. Open the door as soon as the puppy finishes eating.
Repeat at every meal, gradually waiting 30 seconds, then 1 minute, then 2 minutes after the meal finishes before opening
If the puppy whines, wait for even a brief moment of quiet before opening

Phase 2: Short Confinement (Days 4-7)

Goal: The puppy stays in the crate for 15-30 minutes while you’re home.

Give the puppy a stuffed KONG or chew toy
Close the crate door
Stay in sight. Sit nearby doing something mundane.
Start with 5 minutes. If calm, wait 10 minutes. Then 15. Then 30.
Let the puppy out during a calm moment (not during whining or pawing)

If the puppy whines: - Wait. Most puppies fuss for 30-60 seconds and then settle.

If crying continues beyond 3-4 minutes, the duration was too long. Next time, shorten it.
Never open the door during active crying (this teaches that crying = freedom)
Wait for any gap in the crying - even 2 seconds of quiet - and open the door immediately

Building Duration

Add 5-10 minutes per session. Typical progression:

Day 4: 5-10 minutes
Day 5: 10-20 minutes
Day 6: 20-30 minutes
Day 7: 30-45 minutes

Phase 3: Absence Training (Days 8-14)

Goal: The puppy stays in the crate while you leave the room and eventually leave the house.

With the puppy crated and settled (KONG or toy inside), leave the room for 30 seconds
Return calmly (no excited greeting)
Repeat, extending to 1 minute, then 5 minutes, then 10 minutes
Mix up durations - don’t always increase. Sometimes come back after 2 minutes, sometimes after 8.

First Solo Hours

Exercise the puppy well before crating (tired puppy = calm puppy)
Potty break immediately before crating
Stuffed KONG inside
Leave calmly - no long goodbyes
Start with 30 minutes away, then 1 hour, then 2 hours
When you return: calm greeting. Let the puppy out, go immediately outside for potty.

Phase 4: Overnight (Start When Day Crating Is Solid)

First Night Setup

Exercise and play in the evening to tire the puppy
Last water ~2 hours before bedtime
Last potty trip just before crate time
Crate in your bedroom (the puppy can hear you breathing, which reduces anxiety)
A ticking clock or heartbeat toy near the crate mimics littermates

Nighttime Expectations by Age

Age	Can Hold Bladder	Expected Nights Waking
8 weeks	2-3 hours	2-3 times per night
10 weeks	3-4 hours	1-2 times per night
12 weeks	4-5 hours	1 time per night
16 weeks	5-6 hours	0-1 times per night
6 months	6-8 hours	Usually sleeps through

Nighttime Potty Breaks

When the puppy cries at night, give them the benefit of the doubt for the first few weeks - they probably need to go out. Carry them directly outside (don’t let them walk and potentially squat en route). Let them potty, then straight back in the crate. No play, no attention, no treats. This should be boring.

Maximum Crate Duration by Age

Puppy Age	Daytime Max	Overnight Max
8-10 weeks	1-2 hours	3-4 hours
10-12 weeks	2-3 hours	4-5 hours
3-4 months	3-4 hours	5-6 hours
4-6 months	4-5 hours	6-7 hours
6-12 months	5-6 hours	7-8 hours
12+ months	6-8 hours max	8 hours

Never exceed the daytime maximum. If your work schedule demands longer crating, arrange a midday break (dog walker, friend, or neighbor).

Common Mistakes

Mistake 1: Using the Crate as Punishment

If you put the puppy in the crate when you’re angry or as a consequence for bad behavior, the crate becomes a place the puppy fears. The crate should always be associated with good things: food, chews, calm rest.

Mistake 2: Too Much Too Fast

Going from zero crate time to 4 hours on day one guarantees panic. Progress gradually. If you’re behind schedule, slow down rather than push through.

Mistake 3: Letting the Whining Win

Opening the door when the puppy cries teaches one lesson: cry and the door opens. Wait for quiet. This doesn’t mean ignoring distress - if a puppy is genuinely panicked (not just fussing), the session was too long or the introduction was too rushed.

Mistake 4: Exciting Departures and Arrivals

Long goodbyes and enthusiastic returns create contrast between “you’re here” (amazing) and “you’re gone” (terrible). Keep departures and arrivals low-key.

Mistake 5: Crate Is Too Large

A puppy in an oversized crate will use one end as a bathroom. Use a divider panel to reduce the space to just enough for sleeping.

When Crate Training Isn’t Working

If after 2-3 weeks of consistent training, your puppy still panics in the crate:

Rule out medical issues. Urinary tract infections, gastrointestinal problems, and pain can cause crate distress.
Check the environment. Is the crate too hot, too cold, too isolated, or too noisy?
Evaluate for separation anxiety. True separation anxiety (not general puppy fussiness) requires a different training protocol, often with a veterinary behaviorist.
Consider an exercise pen as an alternative. Some dogs do better in a pen than a crate because the pen allows more movement while still containing the puppy to a safe area.

For crate recommendations, see our best dog crates for apartments guide and our new puppy checklist.

Frequently Asked Questions

Should I cover the crate at night?

Covering three sides with a light blanket creates a den-like darkness that helps many puppies sleep. Leave one side uncovered for ventilation. Some dogs prefer the crate uncovered - try both and see which your puppy settles better with.

Can I crate train an adult rescue dog?

Yes, but go slower than with a puppy. Adult dogs may have negative crate associations from previous experiences. Use the same gradual introduction method, but expect 3-4 weeks instead of 1-2 for the basics. Some adult dogs never warm up to crates - an exercise pen is a viable alternative.

My puppy goes crazy when I open the crate door. Is this normal?

Yes. Wait for the puppy to sit or at least stand calmly before opening the door. This teaches that calm behavior opens the door, not frantic excitement.

How do I transition from crate to free roaming?

Start by leaving the crate door open while you’re home. Then try short absences (10 minutes) with one room accessible. Gradually expand the accessible area over 2-4 weeks. If accidents or destructive behavior return, go back to the crate for another month before trying again.