Dog Collar Types Compared: Flat, Martingale, Harness, and More

Walking down the collar aisle at any pet store is overwhelming. Flat collars, martingales, prong collars, head halters, front-clip harnesses, back-clip harnesses, slip leads - each designed for different dogs, different problems, and different training philosophies.

Choosing wrong doesn’t just waste money. A prong collar on a soft dog can create fear-based behavioral problems. A flat collar on a chronic puller can damage the trachea. A harness on a trained dog can encourage pulling where none existed before.

Here’s every type, what it does, who it’s for, and what the research and trainers actually say about each one.

Everyday Collars

Flat Collar

A simple strip of nylon, leather, or Biothane with a buckle or clip and a D-ring for leash attachment. The default collar that holds ID tags and serves basic leash walking.

Best for: Dogs that walk without pulling, everyday tag attachment, legal ID requirements Not for: Strong pullers (concentrates pressure on trachea), breeds prone to tracheal collapse (Pomeranians, Yorkies, Chihuahuas) Price range: $8-$50

Breakaway Collar

Designed with a safety buckle that releases under strong pressure. If the collar catches on something (crate wire, fence, branch), the breakaway mechanism opens to prevent strangulation.

Best for: Unsupervised outdoor dogs, dogs that play with other dogs (collars can get caught in mouths during play), dogs that spend time in wooded areas Not for: Leash walking (the breakaway would release under leash tension) Price range: $10-$25

Rolled Leather Collar

A rounded leather collar instead of the standard flat shape. The rounded profile sits between fur rather than pressing it flat, preventing the coat-parting “collar line” that flat collars create.

Best for: Long-coated breeds where a flat collar would mat and crease the fur (Collies, Spaniels, Setters) Not for: Any situation where a flat collar wouldn’t work Price range: $15-$40

Training and Control Collars

Martingale Collar

Two-loop design: large loop around neck, small loop pulls the large loop tighter when the dog pulls or backs away. Tightens enough to prevent escape but not enough to choke. Loosens immediately when tension releases.

Best for: Dogs that slip out of flat collars (especially sighthounds with narrow heads), training where gentle correction is needed Not for: Unsupervised wear (loose fabric can snag), very small dogs Price range: $10-$35 See our picks: Best Dog Collars

Head Halter (Gentle Leader, Halti)

A strap loops around the muzzle and behind the ears. When the dog pulls, the head halter redirects the head toward the handler, making forward pulling mechanically difficult. Works on the same principle as a horse halter.

Best for: Strong dogs that pull hard, reactive dogs that need head control, owners who lack the physical strength to control a pulling dog Not for: Brachycephalic breeds (flat faces - the muzzle strap doesn’t fit properly), dogs that panic when things touch their face (requires gradual desensitization), off-leash situations Price range: $15-$25

Training note: Most dogs need a 1-2 week adjustment period to accept a head halter. Introduce it with treats and positive association. Putting it on and immediately going for a walk often causes pawing, rubbing, and resistance.

Slip Lead

A leash and collar in one - the loop end goes over the dog’s head and tightens when the dog pulls. Used extensively by veterinarians, shelter workers, and handlers who need to quickly and temporarily leash a dog.

Best for: Quick temporary control (vet offices, shelters, emergency situations), trained dogs that walk well on leash Not for: Dogs that pull (constant pressure on trachea), puppies, untrained dogs, extended walks Price range: $5-$15

Prong Collar (Pinch Collar)

A chain collar with blunt metal prongs on the inside that apply distributed pressure around the neck when the dog pulls. Controversial - trainers are deeply divided on these.

The case for (balanced trainers): Distributes pressure evenly instead of concentrating it on the trachea like a flat collar. Provides clear feedback that many dogs respond to immediately. When properly sized and used, applies less pressure than a determined puller exerts against a flat collar.

The case against (force-free trainers): Relies on discomfort/pain to reduce behavior. Can create negative associations with other dogs, people, or environments present during corrections. Can escalate reactivity and fear-based behavior. Misuse is common and can cause injury.

Our position: If you’re considering a prong collar, work with a professional trainer who can fit it properly and teach you correct technique. Improper use of any aversive tool does more harm than good. Many dogs respond just as well to reward-based training with a front-clip harness. Price range: $15-$30

Harnesses

Back-Clip Harness

A harness with the leash attachment point on the back, between the shoulder blades. Easy to put on, comfortable for the dog, and eliminates any neck pressure.

Best for: Small breeds, brachycephalic breeds (flat-faced dogs that shouldn’t have neck pressure), dogs with tracheal issues, calm walkers, car safety (some double as seatbelt harnesses) Not for: Dogs that pull - the back-clip position allows the dog to lean into pulling with full chest and body weight, sometimes encouraging the behavior Price range: $15-$45

Front-Clip Harness

Leash attaches at the chest/sternum area. When the dog pulls forward, the front attachment redirects sideways, turning the dog toward the handler. This makes pulling mechanically ineffective without applying any corrections.

Best for: Pullers, dogs being trained to walk on a loose leash, large dogs that are difficult to control, anyone transitioning away from an aversive collar Not for: Dogs that already walk well (the front clip can chafe with movement), off-leash situations Price range: $20-$40

Dual-Clip Harness

Offers both front and back attachment points. Use the front clip when training and the back clip when the dog is walking well or when you want a more casual attachment.

Best for: Dogs transitioning from pulling to trained walking, versatility across situations Not for: Nothing - these are the most versatile option Price range: $25-$50

No-Pull Harnesses (Freedom, Easy Walk)

Specifically designed to reduce pulling through fit and attachment point positioning. The PetSafe Easy Walk and 2 Hounds Freedom harness are the two most widely recommended by force-free trainers.

Best for: Dedicated leash training, replacing aversive tools Price range: $20-$35

Quick Decision Guide

Your Situation	Best Option	Why
Dog walks well, need tag holder	Flat collar	Simple, effective, holds ID
Dog slips out of collar	Martingale	Prevents escape without choking
Small breed with delicate throat	Back-clip harness	Zero neck pressure
Strong puller, training needed	Front-clip harness or head halter	Reduces pulling mechanically
Flat-faced breed (Pug, Bulldog)	Back-clip harness	Protects airway
Off-leash hiking dog	Flat collar + GPS tracker	ID and tracking
Long-coated show dog	Rolled leather collar	Won’t mat the coat
Dog home alone in fenced yard	Breakaway collar	Safety release if snagged

The “Collar + Harness” Approach

Most trainers recommend using both:

Flat collar (worn all the time) - holds ID tags and is legal identification
Harness (for walks and outings) - distributes leash pressure across the chest, protects the neck

The collar provides identification. The harness provides walking control. Together, they cover all situations.

For specific product recommendations, see our best dog collars guide and our harness guide for flat-faced breeds.

Frequently Asked Questions

Are choke chains safe?

Most modern trainers recommend against choke chains. They provide correction through tracheal compression, which can damage the trachea, thyroid, and esophagus with repeated use. Front-clip harnesses and head halters achieve the same goal of reducing pulling without the physical risk.

Can my dog wear a harness all day?

Harness design determines comfort. Well-fitting harnesses with breathable materials are comfortable for extended wear. Poorly fitting harnesses can cause chafing under the armpits. Remove the harness after each outing and check for any rubbing or irritation.

Why does my dog act differently with a harness vs. a collar?

Dogs are contextually sensitive. If they’ve learned that pulling on a collar causes discomfort but pulling in a harness doesn’t, they’ll pull more in the harness. This doesn’t mean the harness is wrong - it means training needs to happen while wearing the harness specifically.

What collar type is safest for brachycephalic breeds?

A back-clip harness, not a collar. Flat-faced breeds (Pugs, French Bulldogs, Boston Terriers, Boxers) have compromised airways. Any neck pressure from pulling against a collar or leash risks tracheal damage. Always walk brachycephalic breeds on a harness.