How to Find a Good Dog Trainer (And Spot Bad Ones)

The Problem: No Licensing Required

Unlike veterinarians, dog trainers do not need any education, certification, or license to practice. Anyone can hang a shingle and call themselves a dog trainer, regardless of their qualifications or methods. This means the quality ranges from excellent to dangerous.

Certifications That Matter

While not legally required, these voluntary certifications indicate a trainer has met educational and ethical standards:

• CPDT-KA (Certified Professional Dog Trainer - Knowledge Assessed): Requires 300 hours of experience and passing a comprehensive exam. Requires continuing education. Administered by the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers (CCPDT).
• KPA CTP (Karen Pryor Academy Certified Training Partner): Rigorous program focused on clicker training and positive reinforcement.
• CAAB (Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist): A graduate degree (Masters or PhD) in animal behavior. This is the highest non-veterinary qualification for behavior issues.
• DACVB (Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists): A veterinarian who completed a residency in animal behavior. The gold standard for aggression, anxiety, and complex behavioral issues.

Green Flags (Signs of a Good Trainer)

• Uses positive reinforcement as the primary training method
• Can explain the science behind their methods in plain language
• Welcomes you to observe a class before signing up
• Keeps class sizes small (6-8 dogs maximum for group classes)
• Never guarantees results (behavior is complex; guarantees are a red flag)
• Is transparent about their methods, tools, and philosophy
• Has client references and positive reviews
• Refers out cases beyond their expertise (e.g., aggression to a behaviorist)

For more on this topic, see our guide on How to Keep Your Dog Calm at the Vet (Cooperative Care Training).

Red Flags (Signs of a Bad Trainer)

• Uses terms like “alpha,” “dominance,” “pack leader,” or “submission”
• Relies on aversive tools: prong collars, choke chains, shock collars (also marketed as “e-collars” or “stim collars”)
• Guarantees to “fix” your dog in a set number of sessions
• Will not let you observe their training sessions
• Blames the dog for being “stubborn” or “willful”
• Uses physical corrections: leash jerking, alpha rolling, scruff shaking
• Offers board-and-train programs with no transparency about what happens while the dog is in their care

For more on this topic, see our guide on How to Dog-Proof Your Home.