How to Find a Good Dog Trainer (And Spot Bad Ones)

The Problem: No Licensing Required

Unlike veterinarians, dog trainers do not need any education, certification, or license to practice. Anyone can hang a shingle and call themselves a dog trainer, regardless of their qualifications or methods. This means the quality ranges from excellent to dangerous.

Certifications That Matter

While not legally required, these voluntary certifications indicate a trainer has met educational and ethical standards:

• CPDT-KA (Certified Professional Dog Trainer - Knowledge Assessed): Requires 300 hours of experience and passing a comprehensive exam. Requires continuing education. Administered by the Certification Council for Professional Dog Trainers (CCPDT).
• KPA CTP (Karen Pryor Academy Certified Training Partner): Rigorous program focused on clicker training and positive reinforcement.
• CAAB (Certified Applied Animal Behaviorist): A graduate degree (Masters or PhD) in animal behavior. This is the highest non-veterinary qualification for behavior issues.
• DACVB (Diplomate of the American College of Veterinary Behaviorists): A veterinarian who completed a residency in animal behavior. The gold standard for aggression, anxiety, and complex behavioral issues.

Green Flags (Signs of a Good Trainer)

• Uses positive reinforcement as the primary training method
• Can explain the science behind their methods in plain language
• Welcomes you to observe a class before signing up
• Keeps class sizes small (6-8 dogs maximum for group classes)
• Never guarantees results (behavior is complex; guarantees are a red flag)
• Is transparent about their methods, tools, and philosophy
• Has client references and positive reviews
• Refers out cases beyond their expertise (e.g., aggression to a behaviorist)

For more on this topic, see our guide on How to Keep Your Dog Calm at the Vet (Cooperative Care Training).

Red Flags (Signs of a Bad Trainer)

• Uses terms like “alpha,” “dominance,” “pack leader,” or “submission”
• Relies on aversive tools: prong collars, choke chains, shock collars (also marketed as “e-collars” or “stim collars”)
• Guarantees to “fix” your dog in a set number of sessions
• Will not let you observe their training sessions
• Blames the dog for being “stubborn” or “willful”
• Uses physical corrections: leash jerking, alpha rolling, scruff shaking
• Offers board-and-train programs with no transparency about what happens while the dog is in their care

For more on this topic, see our guide on How to Stop Your Dog from Counter Surfing.